On Route Nutrition Beta


I should firstly say that I am NOT a nutritionist. But I have done some research and testing and found what works pretty damn well for me. This eating system, or something like it might work great for you. But my number one piece of advice to is to experiment and find a system that works for you. With that said... here's what I have been doing.

During the day I have been eating bars, just like everyone else. They are easy to choke down and work well. Normally I bring mostly ProBars because I like what they are made from and how calorie rich they are. I eat them in quarters and chew them super super well. Housing one of these bars in a sitting is pretty inefficient since the amount of water that you would need to drink to metabolize the whole thing is way more than your going to consume in a sitting. So be intentional, just eat a quarter and chew that thing to high heaven.

If I could, I would buy these bars (Core Bars), but they are expensive and keeping them refrigerated is an issue. But if you want a bar for closer to home, they are the jam. Super simple, excellent ingredients, raw, gluten free, dairy free, organic... I buy them at Seattle Bouldering Project.

I will generally carry a few chewy sugary things like Shot Blocs for when I need a sugar hit but I try to stay on top of my eating so that I can run effectively on fats/proteins (which take much longer to metabolize in your gut but carry a lot more energy).

During the day I have been also putting Chia Seeds into my water. This helps with hydration, BIG TIME. The chia seeds inflate with h2o and then stick to your stomach lining, resulting in time release hydration. Check into it. Get into it!

In the morning I pound oatmeal, I eat it in the packet... it's easy to get down with the sugar to get me going and I don't have to think about it. I always drink/need instant coffee. And I will get bars moving through my system early once I actually start climbing.

When we stop to bivy is when the real fun starts. I have a drink mix that is most of what I consume in the evening. Here are the components...

-5 parts Sunwarrior Protein Powder

-5 parts Carbo gain

-1 part Cacao Powder

-1 part Wheatgrass Powder

-1 part Maca Powder

Mix a liter of water with a couple of scoops of this stuff and your body will go into full recovery mode. And yes, feel free to put some Chias in as well.

I will also eat some solid food but about half as much as I normally would, this is mostly to make me feel happy and to give me something solid that is harder to metabolize therefore keeping me warm when I sleep.

This solid food will be half dried mashed spuds and half rolled quinoa mixed with salami, cheese, sea salt and turmeric  Basically a comfort meal with the added benefit of helping you hydrate (salt), working as an antiflam (turmeric) and giving you hella protein (quinoa).

The super drink gets mixed up in a water bottle and the solid food gets mixed up in an old freeze dried meal bag meaning that the reactor pot stays clean and can be melting water the whole time that consumption is going on. Also, all of this can be cooked with tepid water simply poured over it. Meaning, no mess and super fuel efficiency. Which in the mountains in the kind of world we want to live in :).

Alright so that’s it! I’m headed back to AK in a couple of days. Time to test and refine these systems once again. I'll note any amendments when I get back.